How to Change Golf Grips

To change golf grips, remove the old grips and tape, clean and dry the shafts, apply fresh grip tape and solvent, then slide on and align the replacements before letting them cure. The standard tape-and-solvent method works well at home when you have a secure work area and compatible grips. Here’s how to choose your supplies, complete the installation, and avoid problems such as stuck or twisted grips.

When to Replace Golf Grips

Replace grips that feel slippery, have hardened, or show cracks, shiny patches, or worn areas that affect your hold. Pay particular attention to the pressure points beneath your thumbs.

If a grip is simply dirty, clean it before deciding it needs replacement. Dirt, sunscreen, and skin oils can reduce traction even when the material underneath is still usable.

About every 40 rounds is a useful regripping checkpoint for Stick Grips golf grips, per the maker’s guidance, rather than a universal replacement deadline. Wear varies with grip material, practice, and how tightly you hold the club. The deciding check is the grip itself: replace it when slipperiness, hardness, or wear changes its feel.

What You Need to Regrip Golf Clubs

Compatible replacement grips, double-sided grip tape, grip solvent, and the specified installation tools provide the basic setup for regripping golf clubs.

Choose Compatible Replacement Grips

Two different dimensions matter when buying grips:

Outside size: Undersize, standard, midsize, and larger options describe the thickness you hold.
Core size: The opening inside the grip must suit the shaft’s butt diameter.

A larger outside grip does not necessarily have a larger core. Check both specifications rather than buying “oversize” to solve a shaft-fit problem.

If your current grips feel comfortable, matching their model, size, and tape build is the simplest starting point. If you want a different feel, try the replacement on a club before committing to the whole set. Extra tape can increase thickness, but it can also make a grip feel firmer because the material stretches over a larger base.

Also decide whether you want a round grip, a reminder rib, or another alignment feature. A rib or raised alignment feature needs careful positioning relative to the clubface.

Gather the Installation Tools

Have a hook blade, double-sided grip tape, and golf grip solvent ready, the core installation tools specified for Stick Grips golf grips. A utility knife, ruler or measuring tape, and clean rags complete the maker’s basic setup for those grips; the hook blade can fit a compatible utility-knife handle.

For the tape-and-solvent method, buy actual double-sided golf grip tape, available as pre-cut 2-inch-wide strips or a 2-inch × 50-yard roll. Ordinary masking tape is not a substitute for the outer adhesive installation layer.

You will also need:

Your replacement grips.
A bench vise and protective rubber shaft clamp.
A catch pan beneath the working area.
A plastic scraper for stubborn tape.
Solvent-resistant gloves and eye protection.

Work with ventilation and keep grip solvent away from flames, sparks, and other ignition sources. Check the solvent’s handling instructions for suitable gloves and disposal. Arrange everything within reach before opening the solvent.

Allow Time for Installation and Curing

Budget 10–15 minutes of hands-on installation per club for Stick Grips golf grips, using the maker’s estimate, plus preparation and cure time. Removing stubborn tape can be the slowest part.

For a full set, you can remove and clean the old grips first, but wet and install each replacement individually. Do not apply solvent to several taped shafts and then work your way through them.

How to Change Golf Grips With Tape and Solvent

Decide on the finished grip thickness before securing the first club.

Your Goal	Grip and Tape Choice
Keep the current feel	Match the existing grip model and size, and reproduce its tape build.
Make the same grip slightly thicker	Add uniform build-up layers. One extra wrap of standard double-sided tape adds approximately 1/64 inch to the finished diameter; actual tape thickness varies.
Move from standard toward midsize	A +4 build, four extra wraps over the normal installation layer, roughly equals the jump from standard to midsize feel. A dedicated midsize grip is the alternative, though its feel may differ.

Step 1: Secure the Club

Set the clubface square and decide the grip’s orientation before adding solvent.

Place a protective rubber shaft clamp around the shaft and secure it in the vise. About 6 inches from the butt is an initial positioning reference, but move the clamp below the entire grip area before removal or installation if it obstructs your work.
Tighten only enough to prevent movement. Never clamp a shaft directly between bare metal jaws, especially a graphite shaft.
Use a clear visual reference for the clubface. Choose the grip’s logo, rib, or alignment-feature position.

The entire grip area needs to remain accessible for cutting, cleaning, taping, and sliding on the replacement.

Step 2: Remove the Old Grip

Place the catch pan beneath the grip area.
Starting at the open end of the old grip, use the hook blade to make a controlled lengthwise cut away from your body.
Keep the cutting edge directed into the grip material, not down into the shaft.
Peel the grip apart and remove it.

On graphite, avoid dragging a straight blade along the shaft. The goal is to split the rubber without scoring the surface beneath it. Cutting also destroys the old grip; if you want to preserve an expensive grip, have a shop remove it with suitable equipment.

Step 3: Remove Old Tape and Clean the Shaft

Peel away the old installation tape and any build-up tape you are replacing. Note the existing build if you want to reproduce it.
Use a plastic scraper to lift stubborn pieces without gouging the shaft.
Wipe away adhesive residue with a rag dampened with golf grip solvent.
Let the shaft dry completely before applying fresh tape.

The new tape needs a clean, dry surface, not a layer of old adhesive and loose scraps.

Inspect the exposed shaft as you work. If you find a crack, splintered graphite, or a significant cut, stop and have the shaft inspected before using the club.

Step 4: Apply New Grip Tape

Hold the replacement grip alongside the shaft to establish the area it will cover. Keep the lower edge of the tape beneath the installed grip rather than extending beyond its opening.
Apply your chosen build-up layers smoothly and evenly.
Lay the final double-sided grip-tape strip along the shaft, leaving about 1/2 inch overhanging the butt.
Wrap the tape around the shaft without wrinkles and remove its release liner.
Fold and tuck the overhang into the hollow shaft end, covering the sharp rim.

Check for raised seams, loose edges, and bunching. Uneven tape can create ridges you feel through the grip and make installation harder.

Do not leave backing paper on the exposed adhesive. The solvent needs to wet the tape itself.

Step 5: Wet the Grip and Tape With Solvent

Check that the grip and solvent are compatible and that the catch pan is in place.
Cover the small vent hole in the grip’s butt cap with a finger.
Pour grip solvent into the grip, cover the open end, and rotate it so the entire interior is coated.
Uncover the vent hole and drain the solvent over the taped shaft, wetting the full installation area. Address any dry patches if needed.
Move straight into installation.

Dry tape farther down can grab before the grip is seated.

Complete installation within a few minutes of applying solvent. This is why the grip’s orientation, work area, and tools need to be ready beforehand.

Step 6: Slide On and Align the New Grip

Bring the grip opening squarely onto the shaft butt rather than approaching at an angle.
Push the grip on in one smooth, continuous motion.
Seat it fully so the shaft butt reaches the inside of the grip cap.
Immediately make any small adjustments while the grip still moves freely.
Check for twisting or unusual stretching.

You may have only 20–30 seconds before the tape grabs during sliding, so make any alignment adjustments promptly.

Push the grip into position rather than pulling hard on its lower opening. Excessive pulling can stretch or distort it. Use the alignment marks as a visual check while adjustment is still possible.

If the grip stops moving, do not hammer it into place or force a large twist after the adhesive has started to hold.

Step 7: Let the Grip Cure

Wipe excess solvent from the grip, shaft, and clubhead.
Confirm that the cap is fully seated.
Remove the club from the vise and leave it undisturbed.
Let the grip cure for at least 2 hours before play. Use a longer wait if your particular tape-and-solvent combination specifies one.
After curing, hold the club normally and gently check for movement between the grip and shaft.

Do not practice swings or repeatedly twist the grip while it is setting. If it still shifts after the required cure period, do not play with it; the installation needs inspection.

Collect solvent and contaminated materials for disposal according to the product’s instructions rather than pouring them down a drain.

Flared Shafts, Putter Grips, and Installation Problems

Grips for Flared Shafts

A flared or enlarged-butt shaft needs a grip whose core is designed to pass over that section. An ordinary grip may be too tight even if its outside size is labeled midsize or oversize.

Identify the shaft or club model and confirm compatibility with the replacement-grip maker’s fit information. Some designs need a dedicated grip or installation tool; a club-repair shop is the sensible choice when compatibility is unclear.

Do not shave the shaft, enlarge the grip opening with a knife, or force an incompatible core over the flare. The correct fit must be established before installation.

Flat-Front Putter Grips

For a flat-front putter grip, the flat surface, not necessarily the printed logo, is the useful alignment reference. Its position should match the intended relationship to the putter face.

Putter grips can also differ substantially in shape, core fit, and construction. Confirm that the grip is designed for the shaft and for tape-and-solvent installation before treating it like an ordinary iron grip.

A Grip That Stops Halfway

The usual causes are a delay during installation, bunched tape, or an incompatible grip core.

If the grip still slides freely, remove it immediately and check the fit and tape. Replace damaged or bunched tape, wet both the grip interior and taped shaft again, then slide the grip fully home and align it. Wipe away solvent and allow at least 2 hours of curing before play.

If the grip has already seized, leave it in place. Have a shop remove it, or sacrifice the grip and restart with a fresh replacement after removing the old tape and adhesive. Trying to rescue a stuck grip by adding force can damage the grip or shaft.

Check Your New Grips and Keep Them Clean

Before the club goes back into play, confirm:

Alignment: The logo, rib, or flat surface sits as intended.
Shape: The grip has no spiraling, bunching, or unusual stretching.
Security: It feels secure under normal hand pressure.
Finish: No sticky tape or solvent residue remains exposed below the opening.

For ordinary rubber grips, clean away dirt and skin oils with mild soap, warm water, and a soft cloth or brush. Rinse off the soap and let the grips dry fully before storing or using the clubs. Specialty grip materials may need a different cleaning method.

Keep grips out of prolonged heat and direct sunlight during storage, and avoid putting them away wet. Once the installation passes the checks, try the newly gripped club in practice before replacing the rest of the set with the same size and tape build.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is It Easy to Replace Golf Grips Yourself?

Yes: standard tape-and-solvent regripping can be done at home with the right tools and materials. Removing old tape takes patience; sliding on the new grip requires preparation rather than strength. A shop is a better choice for uncertain shaft compatibility, damaged graphite, or grips you want removed intact.

How Much Does It Cost to Have Golf Grips Changed?

The total is the price of the replacement grips plus the shop’s installation charge and any applicable tax. Ask whether the quote includes tape, solvent, old-grip removal, and any extra build-up work, and whether installation is included when you buy grips there. Learning to regrip golf clubs can offer cost savings compared with professional installation services.

What Size Golf Grips Should I Choose for My Hand Size?

Use hand length and the grip maker’s sizing chart as a starting point, then compare the actual feel of different grip sizes. Glove size can help narrow the choice, but it does not account for every difference in finger length, grip shape, or preferred thickness. Choose a size that lets you hold the club securely without crowding your fingers or having to squeeze excessively.